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The Grape Debate
By Christian and David Asam
Wine Listaphobia

 
   

David: Wine lists can be intimidating and sometimes downright overwhelming, but happily there are people to help! Some restaurants have a wine steward or sommelier, (the difference being the level of knowledge and certification). Men and women in these roles are here to help, not to intimidate or make you feel stupid. Whether you have an idea of what wine you like or haven’t got a clue, you can still ensure your meal will be complemented by the perfect juice.
Christian: That’s right. But not all restaurants have a sommelier or wine steward—actually, most don’t. If that is the case, ask for the person who orders the wine for the restaurant. It may be the head waiter, bartender, or dining room manager, but there is usually a knowledgeable person there who can help.
David: Okay, so now you have found the person who knows about the wines on the list, what now? How do you get the most out of them?
Christian: When guests come into our restaurant and ask for assistance with the wine list, I love it when they give me a price range. When they say to the wine steward, “Hi, my wife and I are having steak and we are looking for a bottle of red wine under $60,” that is a big help. I am now able to assist this guest easily without offending them by recommending something out of their price range.
David: That is a big help. But I don’t always get that clue, so then I usually suggest a couple of bottles in very different price ranges to gauge a reaction. I think there are three main reasons you should always ask for assistance with the list. 1) The wine stewards taste the wines on their list regularly and are usually up to date on recent vintages, or changes in a wine’s style. 2) They can turn you on to something new, or something you would not have usually ordered. 3) Not only have they tasted the wines, they have most likely tasted most of the restaurant’s food, so they should be pretty good at food and wine pairings.
Christian: What about this issue a wine steward often faces? A table of two for dinner and the lady is having sea bass and the gentleman is having a New York strip steak?
David: There are two simple solutions to this dilemma. First, find a wine that goes well with both. There are full-bodied, buttery, oakey white wines, like some Australian Chardonnays that can stand up to a juicy steak. Also, there are lighter fruity red wines, like California pinot noir, that are an amazing pairing with meaty fish like salmon or tuna. The other solution is to order half bottles. Let the sea bass have the fresh and crisp Chablis (which is Chardonnay from the Chablis region of Burgundy, France, not the jug wine from the grocery store), and let the meat be paired with a merlot-based Bordeaux from Pomerol.
Christian: Also, good restaurants will have an extensive selection of wines by the glass. So, if one bottle won’t cut it, and they don’t have half bottles on the list, ask the sommelier to match each course with a different wine by the glass. Most wine stewards will enjoy the challenge! Also, some rules are meant to be broken. At the end of the day it is about what makes you happy. If you want to have a cabernet with the sea bass, go for it. Wine lists and sommeliers should not be scary or intimidating, they should work hand-in-hand to enhance your entire dining experience.
Since we have been talking about difficult wine pairings, what’s a wine you would recommend that will go with most types of food?
Christian: Try Gruner Veltliner, a wine mostly found from Austria. This grape is known as the sommelier’s best friend.  With zesty acidity and earthy flavors, this wine can hold up to hard-to-pair food items like asparagus and tomatoes. It is also great as a summer sipper. Ask your local wine shop for any Gruner Veltliner. I especially recommend Salomon (on the low end, around $15) and Rudi Pichler (which is a little more pricy, but worth it.).
David: Pinot noir is the most versatile red grape.  And finally (albeit, slowly) the 2005 vintage is getting released and is universally acclaimed as stellar. Try Chalone Vineyard Estate Grown Pinot Noir, Monterey, California (approx. $30).  Juicy red fruits of cherry and raspberry balanced by hints of fresh tobacco. This wine will be fantastic with seared tuna, but even hold up to a grilled rib eye.

 
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